Quaint Caffe Allegro redefines cozy ambience

The truth is out there, and if Plato were alive today, he would insist it were digital. We, the vanguard of the digital aesthetic, submit a new vision for this, our analog-fixated world.

What does this have to do with this week's featured restaurant? Very little indeed. But Beggars' Banquet has always prided itself on its uncanny ability to promote a hidden agenda.

Toward the less obscure end of local gastronomic demystification, we offer for your consideration and stimulation one Caffe Allegro. Our prima facie translation would have us believe that this establishment specializes in fast-moving desserts and pastries that would naturally accompany an equally athletic cup of java. To be sure, although the service was rather quick, this is not to say by any means that Caffe Allegro is simply Nick's quick take on Italian cuisine.

In fact, it might be better said that Caffè Allegro is La Verne's answer to La Piccoletta, in what amounts to La Verne's attempt to capture all the quaint charm of our humble Village. This restaurant, which rode high on a wave of readers' recommendations, comfortably seats about two for dinner, though ten or so are usually present during peak hours. This is to say that Caffe Allegro cuts no corners when it comes to recreating all the intimate ambiance of a hall closet.

Rest assured that once you've worked your way in to the dining area, the enticing aroma of forthcoming ambrosia will undoubtedly temper any anxious pangs of claustrophobia.

Despite the fact that the place is so small that the chef himself heard our orders and could have flawlessly flung them from the kitchen onto our table, said orders were carelessly permuted by our spatially dyslexic yet well-meaning waiter. Nonetheless, upon tasting them we were individually overwhelmed by legions of warm Italian fuzzies. Indeed, once your entree is served, all concerns of your cramped surroundings are reduced to unsettling fears of your neighbor's fork mistaking your eyeball for a succulent ravioli. To boot, after a satisfying meal the check fell well within BB's steadfast parameters for cheap grub.

In conclusion, we put forth the notion that the digital medium is not so much a technically precise albeit artificially flat means to reflect the organic analog, but rather an aesthetically significant end unto itself, and therein reside the seeds of the new paradigm. Behold the digital aesthetic.

Caffe Allegro takes up very little real estate at 2124 Third Street in La Verne. If they could squeeze a phone into the kitchen, it would certainly ring true at (909) 593-0788.


rolson@pomona.edu, aflint@hmc.edu
Original date of publication: December 8, 1994.
Last updated: March 16, 1995.